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FAQ: Easi Paint applicator questions

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Water based paints tend to thicken with age so you will find that paint consistency varies quite a bit from can to can. The Easi-Paint system will give you the best results when when the paint is mixed to the consistency of fresh pouring cream. I always pour about a litre of paint from a 4 litre can into an ice cream dish ... or something I can put a lid on ... and add water to the can ... just half a cup at a time ... stirring thoroughly from the bottom to the top until the paint runs off the stirring stick like fresh cream. If you buy eg, a 10 litre can, get an old 4 litre can and decant 3 litres into it from the larger can. If you add too much water add some of the paint from the ice cream dish to thicken it again. If, once you have poured the paint into the loading tray, the wheel wont turn properly and keeps rolling back down or you find a lot af drag with the large brush and you're having to press hard when you work it means your paint is too thick ... add a little more water ... it should feel like the paint is flowing easily onto the surface. Nearly all problems faced by our customers over the years are caused by the paint being too thick. You can get streaks, you can use too much paint, you can get drips and instead of being easy it turns into hard work. Once you have fixed this problem you will find the system works beautifully. Water based gloss enamels do not require thinning; Use them straight from the can with the medium brush. By reducing the size of the brush you reduce the drag making it quicker and easier to work with.

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Sure ... use the cutting in brush ... it's the perfect size for the job. When you paint louvre doore start at the bottom of the door and work your way up ... if you go the other way the handle will be rubbing against the wet paint you just put on.
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You can use one brush for both water and oil based paints provided its cleaned properly between paints. Ideally, it is good policy to have one pad for each paint type; the brush used for oil based paints will season during uses due to being washed with mineral turpentine. This can improve pads used for oil based paints over time and is what we do ourselves. It isnt necessary to have a seperate painting pad for each paint type if you dont do much painting; however it is recommended if you frequently use both paint types as it will reduce the overall time spent mucking about and cleaning pads in the middle of a job.
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Yes you can. The rule of thumb to go by with painting is that you should always do the worst jobs first ... in this case it's the mortar joins. Turn the large brush on the angle and use the edge of the pad to get into the mortar joins ... if you don't get full coverage ... don't press harder ... turn it round and use theother edge of the pad. Then use a short wriggled stroke with the brush flat on the brickwork ... the more you wriggle it the more the suspension system will force the bristles to do the hard work for you ... and don't use pressure ... too much pressure will ruin a good job and wear the pads prematurely.
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Certainly ... the brushes are perfect for these particular surfaces as the 10mm suspension system allows the bristles to curve around the contours and work right into the texture ... you'll paint them almost as fast as you can move your hand.
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One of the few limitations the pads have is they don't like being cleaned in thinners ... thinners is very plastic unfriendly and will turn the laminated back into chewing gum. By the same token we sell a lot of pads to people for use with marine enamels which is thinners clean up ... you will get a great job done ... but the pads are then disposable as you can't wash them out at the end of the job. The saving in time and the ease of effort will more than offset the cost of the pads.
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Absolutely ... we are a Brisbane based company and in our climate a huge percentage of time is spent living outdoors on decks ... so we had a set of Stain pads made in England with the same bristle as the standard replacemnt pads ... but with a shorter ... finer grade of bristle. The shorter bristle puts on a thinner ... perfectly even coat of timber oil ... which is exactly what you want for a professional job and a long lasting result. These new Stain and Varnish pads really do give a sensational french polish finish ... use them for all the thinner timber mediums timber stains ... timber oils ... light acrylic varnish and so much more.
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Certainly ... it depends what type of varnish it is as to which pad will give you the best result. If you are working with a traditional varnish ... turps clean up ... it's thick and heavy ... treat it just like a full gloss enamel ... use the medium brush with the standard multi purpose pad for a spray gun finish. A lot of the newer acrylic varnishes ... water based ... on the markes ... are very thin and runny in consistency ... in which case our new Stain and Varnish pads will give you a better finish as they are specifically designed with a shorter finer bristle to give a superb french polish finish with the thinner runnier timber mediums.
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Before first use make sure that any dust or loose fibres are removed from the tri-fibre pad by rubbing the surface of the pad with your hand or the back of a knife blade or scraper ... you will see the excess fibres being released ... when no more loose fibres can be seen your pad is ready for use.
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No ... Never thin down oil based paint. It should always be used straight from the can and the medium brush and the edging brush are the best sizes for for full gloss enamels ... estapols ... all of the thicker heavier paints.

Tip
. The longer full gloss enamel paint is exposed to the air it becomes noticeably thicker and thicker. A professional painter told us years ago that to slow this thickening process down add 1 cap of boiled linseed oil ... pick it up at your hardware store ... to 1 litre of oil based paint. It works for us!!
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When you're painting rough sawn timber always follow the grainof the timber ... don't go against it or you will fill the pad with splinters. Keep lots of paint on the pad ... the paint is acting as a lubricant between the friction of the surface and the pad itself and apply it using a short wriggled action ... and don't use pressure ... too much pressure will ruin a good job and wear the pads out prematurely.
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The Easi Paint Painting pads push out of the handle from the back (middle). Use your finger or a blunt instrument to push the pads out. Once partially freed from the handle clips, painting pads can be removed by holding the loosened portion and pulling it free from the handle.

To install new painting pads, simply arch the pad slightly, insert one side under the clips and allow the painting pad to straighten itself and lock in under the other sides paint pad retaining clips.

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Before you start work have a close look at the medium size pad ... you'll see that the bristles slope very slightly in one direction ... as enamels and estpols are very thick heavy paints when you load the brush the bristles will lean that way a little more ... so with enamel paints always work in the same direction the bristles are leaning. if you are using from the wrong side it will feel scratchy as the bristles are being forced against themselves ... and the finish is bad. If so ... turn the brush around as you are going the wrong way. Oil based paints ... despite their long drying time start to set very quickly ... so it's easier to do short strokes rather than long ones ... make contact with the surface ... wriggle the brush to establish a good start ... and scuff on or wipe onabout 12 cm of paint ... then go back over it and using no pressure ... lightly lay it off in the same direction ... no pressure gives a better finish ... makes it easier on you ... and ensures a much longer life from the pads. Repeat the process overlapping the work just a little every time ... follow these simple steps and you will get a spray gun finish with full gloss enamels.

Tip
. Preparation is the key to a good finish with enamels ... I put on an undercoat ... once that's dry give it a light sand with 1200 wet and dry sandpaper.
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Have a close look at the pad in the edging brush and you will notice that the pad leans in one direction ... for this job you want to use the side of the pad that is leaning out toward the guard at the aedge of the handle. Clean any wet paint off the side guard of the handle ... the guard now rests against the wall that you don't want to paint and the bristles get right into the corner of the wall that you are painting ... don't use any pressure ... just let the weight of the brush carry itself along the surface of the wall that you're painting ... then follow with the large brush to finish the large areas.
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Put your thumb under the laminated back of the pad out toward you ... gently bend the pad over your finger and place it back in the handle sideways and you have a right angle corner brush ... always keep the pad resting against the front guard of the handle for added stability.
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On the face of the extension clip ... in each corner you will see a small square window. You need something flat ... a screwdriver or something similar ... insert the screwdriver under the first window and gently twist ... this releases the safety lock. Repeat on the other window to release the other lock. When you put the extension clip back in you will hear the safety locks snap back into place.
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When you start with a fresh pad you will need to prime it first. Load the brush twice on the roller then gently scuff off the paint off on the end of the tray ... repeat that one more time then have a look at the pad ... you should have a little colour on all the bristles ... the pad is now primed and ready to load. Load the brush twice over the roller ... end to end in the same direction so you know that you're loading the whole pad. Never any more than that though ... that's enough to paint almost 1 sq. metre but not enough to drip.
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Remove the pad from the medium handle and turn it sideways before you put it back in ... you'll see that it's too long this way. Bend it gently in the middle and click the pad back under the clips it's now a perfect fit for standard cornice. For small cornice and corrugated sheeting ... leave one side of the pad in place and move the other side into the big window in the centre of the handle ... in one more notch ... use the other side of the window in the handle ... for tight beading and panelling ... deeper recesses ... colonial doors and windows.
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Naturally your first job as always is to prepare the door by filling in any imperfections and giving the door a light sand. You will only get a blemish free finish on a blemish free surface. Paint won't fill blemishes it will follow them. Whether you are using an oil based enamel, a water based gloss or varnish, estapol etc the method of application is the same as in the previous two questions on working with oil based paint. I find the best way to tackle a door is to leave it where it is, fixed to the doorway. You can take it off the hinges and lay it flat but have you ever noticed, especially in older houses one or two of the screws wont budge and you have to reset the door afterwards. Instead, chock the door open half way so you can access both sides. Before you do this, put newspaper under the door. Make sure the paint etc. is well stirred and pour it into the smaller of the two loading trays. Use the cutting in brush, the smallest one, to paint the two side ends and the top end. The thicker mediums, being quite heavy are best applied from the bottom up as this prevents sag lines appearing as the paint settles. Scuff the paint on in one direction only, dont go backwards and forwards, until you have full coverage and then lightly go back over the work in one non-stop action, again from bottom to top, called laying off. When both ends and the top are done, start on one side of the door, working from the hinged end across, on the bottom of the door, with the medium brush. Again only ever work in one direction when applying the paint or laying off. As before once you have full coverage, lightly go back over to lay the work off. You have now covered app. 75mm of the base of the door. Slightly overlapping this strip, apply paint to the next section up, always working in the same direction and laying off. Keep doing the same thing until that side is done and repeat this on the other side. You will find it only takes about five minutes per side which is great. The faster you work with the heavier paints the easier and better it is. Keep dogs and kids away until it is dry. If you are not changing the colour drastically, one coat may well suffice. Check when it is dry. If it is not a solid colour all over, lightly sand and apply a second coat the same way. Follow the directions on the can for drying time and recoating. You will love the professional finish you get.
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The Easi Paint Painting pads push out of the handle from the back (middle). Use your finger or a blunt instrument to push the pads out. Once partially freed from the handle clips, painting pads can be removed by holding the loosened portion and pulling it free from the handle.

To install new painting pads, simply arch the pad slightly, insert one side under the clips and allow the painting pad to straighten itself and lock in under the other sides paint pad retaining clips.

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Dont let the tray spill over the sides. Anything below that level is fine. Ideally a 5mm to 10 mm gap between the paint in the tray and top lip of the tray is good and allows the paint tray to be moved with reduced risk of spillage.
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It should be fine. It will produce nicely textured results. I would recommend using the Faux Finish Wizard painting pad to complement the suede paint effects look and feel. Make sure to pick a suitable base colour to match or complement your suede paint effects colour. The base coat can be in a standard semi gloss or flat paint.
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Obviously a large area like a floor you want to use the large brush on the extension handle ... we took a tip from a professional painter who said to warm the paint up. Fill an old baking dish with boiling water ... pour the estapol into the large try and place the tray into the boiled water ... it's just like putting a teaspoon under hot water to make honey flow ... the paint has a lot more fluidity so now you can whip through a large area with the big brush ... but keep your eye on the temperature ... as it cools your paint will thicken ... so keep topping it up as you go. I wouldn't go to bother for something small like a door because the medium brush is really quick ... but on a big area it's a good way to go.
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Yes ... always do the worst jobs first ... the cutting in is what takes the time ... filling in the big areas after that is the most straightforward part of the job.
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I recommend using regular Easi Paint painting pads if your applying paint or Stain and Varnish painting pads if your using a clear sealer or stain.

The small toothbrush painting pad will be easiest to do the areas adjacent to the glass and beveled surfaces, the medium sized pad is best for the larger flat areas to be painted.

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Load the cutting in brush with paint ... keep a rag with you when you're doing this ... make sure that there is no paint on the front guard ... this guard always stays in contact with the surface that you don't want to paint ... the glass in the window ... a wall where it meets a skirting board. Start with the guard against the glass and the handle at a 45% angle ... make a mark ... this is your starting point so that you can see where you are ... now bit by bit start to lower the handle ... you will see the bristles will get closer and closer to the glass. Don't use any pressure when you're working with the edging brush ... when you find the right angle hold it steady and follow it through ... once you get the knack of this brush you'll be amazed by how much time it saves you ... and at just how many fiddly little jobs you can do with it ... quickly and easily.

Tip.
A really light touch is what you want ... just the weight of the brush ... too much pressure will only squeeze the paint out of the pad ... Oops!!
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Always do the edges first with the cutting in brush ... where the cornice meets the ceiling and make sure you do around the light fittings ... then fit the extension clip in the large brush onto a length of 1" dowel ... a broomstick or mop handle. Paint goes in the middle of the floor on an old sheet of newspaper or covering of some sort. Don't overload the brush ... twice on the roller is all yo need ... if you don't overload it the brush cannot drip ... so there's no need for dropsheets and no dragging heavy furniture from one end of the house to the other ... I simply push it into the middle of the room making sure that there is room to move comfortably around it. hold the brush flat on the ceiling ... don't press hard ... and simply walk forward through the room. One of the biggest differences between using a roller and a paint pad is that with a roller you are working directly above yourself ... which is why you get a crick in the back of your neck ... whereas with a paint pad you are always working ahead of yourself so it's a far more natural action and easier to see where you're going. In a large room 6m x 6m you will do the ceiling in about 25 minutes.
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The easiest way is to do all the edges first with the edging brush ... then using the large brush work in about a 1 metre track ... an arms sweep really ... hold it flat ... don't press hard and every time you move your arm you paint an 8" path. First just get the paint on from the ceiling to the floor then go back over the work and using no pressure lightly lay it off ... smooth it out ... in one direction. Move along the wall ... paint the next metre and lay it off. Repeat this until you're back at your starting point. to paint a 1 metre track takes only minutes of work ... the paint is all still wet as you're working quickly so there'e no overlaps or join marks and the job is done in no time. We do recommend that you apply 2 coats of paint for a really good finish and a job that;s going to last.

Tip
. If you are painting on a really hot day do remember that you will have a much faster drying time so work in areas about 1 sq. metre at a time.
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It depends a little on how rough the render is ... just remember that the rougher the surface that you're painting the shorter the stroke you use to paint it with. Always work with the brush flat and don't press hard ... too much pressure is just a bad habit we have picked up from battling away with brushes and rollers ... start with a short wriggled action ... you will soon guage how much friction there is and be able to adjust your technique accordingly. direction doesn't matter on a rough surface ... good coverage is what you're after.
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Get someone else to do it ... :-) The cutting in brush is easier than a conventional paintbrush to get into the tight spots ... and the medium brush is faster on the flats ... but this is just one of those really fiddly ... tedious jobs that you do not want to do from the minute you start. Next time ... it will be the one thing I will spray.
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Remove the pad from the handle ... water based paints soak the pad in a bucket of warm water for about 20 minutes ... rinse out dirty water under a warm tap and leave to dry naturally. Oil based paint soak in approx 10 mm of mineral turpentine for 10 minutes ... then remove dirty turps and repeat ... then make sure you wash the dirty turps out thoroughly in warm soapy water and leave to dry naturally. Methylated spirits may also be used in the same method if required.

Tip
. If you want to use the pad straight away make sure you squeeze out any excess water in an old rag ... damp is fine but you can't use the pad wringing wet.
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The large brush is the right one to use on VJ's ... tongue and groove panelling ... I find it easiest to paint the grooves first ... hold the brush at about 45% to the surface and use the edge of the pad to get into the grooves ... once they're done ... work with the large brush flat on the surface to finish the large areas.
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The cutting in brush is the one you use for all the fiddly stuff ... the 10mm suspension system allows the bristles to curve themselves around the contours of the surface. Don't use a lot of pressure ... or you will get runs in the paintwork ... just enough to get the bristles working. And do make sure you use the right paint for the job ... ask at your local hardware store.
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Did you know that a professional painter is trained over many years to get a better job ... done faster ... using a lot less paint?
They are trained to ... use the right consistency of paint ... not too thick ... they learn to apply the paint with only the tips of the bristles of a good quality brush ... and to only load paint to the tips of the bristles ... so as to apply just the right amount of paint to the job.
The Easi-Paint system simply employs the correct principals of painting ... ensuring that you are applying paint with only the tips of the bristles ... by supplying you with a loading system which makes sure you load the right amount of paint to the bristles ... to give you fantastic coverage but not enough to drip ... remember only twice over the mixing loading roller ... and teaching you how to easily adjust the consistency of the paint to suit the system you are applying it with ... easy when you know how.
You will achieve about the same coverage rate as a trained professional ... which is approximately half the amount of water based paint you would have used with traditional brushes and rollers and you will be producing a better looking ... longer lasting finish ... just as the professionals do ... of course with with the high cost of modern paints ... this represents a huge saving in paint costs. Easi-Paint will pay for itself in the first large room that you paint ... and after that the savings are all yours.
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